Convert HDMI To Toslink | Clean Audio Setup Steps

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Convert HDMI to Toslink by using an HDMI audio extractor that splits digital audio to optical while passing video to your TV or monitor.

HDMI is a one-cable win for picture and sound. Toslink (optical) is still everywhere on older receivers, budget soundbars, powered speakers, and DACs. When your source talks HDMI and your audio gear only listens on optical, you end up stuck in the middle.

This article shows the clean ways to get HDMI audio out as Toslink, the gear that actually does the conversion, and the settings that decide whether you get sound at all. You’ll also see the hard limits of optical audio, so you don’t buy a converter expecting formats Toslink can’t carry.

What “HDMI To Toslink” Means In Practice

HDMI and Toslink don’t speak the same electrical language. That’s why you can’t fix this with a passive cable. To convert HDMI to Toslink, you need a powered device that reads the HDMI audio stream and outputs S/PDIF over optical.

  • Split Video And Audio — The box takes HDMI in, passes video out over HDMI, and sends audio out over optical at the same time.
  • Translate Audio Formats — The box can only output formats optical can carry, so your source settings matter.
  • Handle Copy Protection — Streaming apps may use HDCP; a weak extractor can show a black screen or mute audio.

There are two jobs people lump under “HDMI to Toslink.” One is pulling audio from a specific HDMI device like a console. The other is pulling audio from a TV’s ARC port. The wiring looks similar, but the hardware type can differ.

Converting HDMI To Toslink For TVs And Soundbars

This is the common home setup: a TV or monitor for video, and a soundbar or receiver that only has optical in. You can solve it in two ways, depending on what your TV already offers.

Use The TV Optical Output If You Have It

Many TVs already include a Toslink output. If yours does, start there. You skip an extra box, you skip extra HDMI handshakes, and you still get audio from every TV input and app.

  1. Connect Optical From TV To Audio Gear — Plug Toslink from the TV’s Digital Audio Out to your receiver or soundbar’s optical input.
  2. Select Optical On The Receiver — Choose Optical, Digital In, or SPDIF on the audio device.
  3. Set TV Audio Output To Optical — In TV settings, pick Optical Out and set the digital format to PCM or Dolby Digital.

If your TV does not have optical out, or you want audio from a single HDMI source before it hits the TV, an HDMI audio extractor is the direct fix.

Use An HDMI Audio Extractor When The TV Can’t Send Optical

An extractor sits between your HDMI source and your TV. It passes video through to the TV and peels off the audio to optical.

  • Console To TV — Console HDMI out goes into the extractor, then HDMI out to the TV, then Toslink out to your speakers.
  • Streaming Stick To Monitor — The extractor gives you optical audio even when the monitor has no speakers.
  • Cable Box To Projector — You get optical audio without relying on the projector for sound.

Pick The Right HDMI Audio Extractor

Extractors fall into two families. A standard extractor is built for a single HDMI source. An ARC-capable extractor is built to pull audio from a TV’s ARC/eARC HDMI port. Buying the wrong family is a fast path to silence.

  • Match The Direction — Standard extractors sit in the signal path from source to display. ARC extractors pull audio out of a TV’s ARC port.
  • Match Your Video Needs — Check support for 1080p, 4K60, 4K120, HDR10, Dolby Vision, and VRR before you buy.
  • Look For A Format Switch — A toggle for PCM 2.0 vs 5.1 bitstream saves time when one device refuses a format.
  • Plan Stable Power — USB-powered units work well, but use a wall adapter if your TV USB port turns off when the screen sleeps.

Optical audio has a ceiling. It’s fine for stereo PCM and for many setups it can carry compressed surround like Dolby Digital or DTS. It’s not a path for lossless formats like Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, and it’s not a reliable path for Atmos streams. If you want those formats, you need HDMI eARC into a compatible AVR or soundbar. HDMI Licensing sums up what eARC is meant to do on their eARC page.

If your goal is clear dialogue, steady volume, and no random dropouts, Toslink can still be a tidy solution with older gear.

Know What Toslink Can Carry

This part saves money. A lot of “my surround won’t work” issues come from asking optical to carry a format it can’t fit, or asking the TV to send a format it refuses to pass through.

Audio Setting Works Over Toslink What You’ll Hear
PCM Stereo Yes 2-channel audio with strong compatibility
Dolby Digital 5.1 Often Compressed 5.1 if your receiver decodes it
DTS 5.1 Often Compressed 5.1 if your receiver decodes it
Dolby TrueHD / DTS-HD MA No Needs HDMI eARC for full quality
Atmos Output Mode No Falls back or fails, depending on device

If you want the short version: set the source to PCM stereo for the easiest setup, or set it to Dolby Digital/DTS if you want 5.1 and your receiver supports those formats. StarTech explains the bandwidth side of this in their note on S/PDIF surround limits.

Connect It Without Guesswork

Below are the three wiring patterns that fit almost every “convert HDMI to Toslink” request. Pick the one that matches what you’re trying to hear.

Pattern A fits when you have one HDMI source and you want the extractor to feed the TV and the optical-only audio gear.

  1. Connect HDMI From The Source To The Extractor — Use the extractor’s HDMI IN port.
  2. Connect HDMI From The Extractor To The TV — Use the extractor’s HDMI OUT port.
  3. Connect Toslink From The Extractor To The Audio Device — Plug into Optical In on the soundbar, receiver, or DAC.
  4. Power The Extractor — Use USB power from a wall adapter when possible.
  5. Select Optical Input On The Audio Device — Set the receiver/soundbar to the correct input.

Pattern B fits when the audio you care about is coming from the TV itself, like built-in apps or over-the-air channels.

  1. Connect Toslink From TV To Receiver — Use the TV’s Digital Audio Out port.
  2. Set TV Audio Output To Optical — Pick PCM first, then try Dolby Digital if you want surround.
  3. Disable TV Speaker Output If Needed — Some TVs mute optical when internal speakers are forced on.

Pattern C fits when the TV has ARC on HDMI but no optical output, and your receiver is optical-only.

This one only works with an ARC-capable extractor. Standard extractors won’t pull audio from the TV’s ARC port.

  1. Connect ARC HDMI Port From TV To ARC Extractor — Use the TV port labeled ARC or eARC.
  2. Enable ARC In TV Settings — Turn on ARC and HDMI-CEC in the TV audio menu.
  3. Connect Toslink From Extractor To Receiver — Use optical out on the extractor to feed the receiver.

Set Audio Output So Optical Gets A Real Signal

After wiring, settings decide the outcome. You may need to set the source device, the TV, and sometimes the receiver. Start with the simplest audio mode, then move up.

Source Device Settings That Usually Work

  • Set Audio Format To PCM — Choose this when you want sound right away with the least drama.
  • Set Audio Format To Dolby Digital — Choose this when your receiver supports Dolby Digital 5.1.
  • Set Audio Format To DTS — Choose this when your receiver supports DTS and your content offers it.
  • Turn Off Atmos Output — Many devices switch to Atmos once they detect HDMI audio gear, so force a non-Atmos mode.

TV Settings That Can Block Optical

  • Set Digital Audio Out Format — Try PCM first. If you want surround, try Bitstream and pick Dolby Digital.
  • Enable Passthrough If Available — Some TVs offer a passthrough setting that sends the source bitstream without mixing.
  • Turn Off Extra Audio Effects — Sound modes can add delay or force stereo on some sets.

One more gotcha: some TVs send stereo from internal apps over optical, even when the app content is 5.1. In that case, feeding the extractor from an external streamer usually gives better control because the streamer sends the bitstream directly.

Use Cases That Need A Slightly Different Approach

Not every setup is a TV-and-soundbar combo. These are the scenarios where one extra setting makes the difference.

PC to receiver over optical can be simple, but Windows and some GPUs default to stereo unless you pick the right output mode.

On Windows, optical output often defaults to stereo PCM. If your receiver can decode Dolby Digital or DTS, you may be able to enable those formats in the sound device properties. Some PCs also support real-time surround encoding features such as Dolby Digital Live or DTS Interactive through certain sound cards.

  1. Open Sound Output Properties — Pick the digital output device, then open its supported formats.
  2. Enable Dolby Or DTS Formats — Tick the formats your receiver supports, then test.
  3. Set Apps To Bitstream Where Possible — Media players often have a passthrough setting for AC-3 or DTS.

Game consoles can silently reroute audio to a controller or headset setting, which leaves your optical output quiet.

Consoles can reroute audio when voice chat settings are enabled. If your optical output goes quiet only when you join a party or voice call, check the console audio menu for a chat mixer or headset routing setting.

  • Set Output To HDMI — Make sure the console still outputs game audio over HDMI when a headset is present.
  • Turn Off Controller Speaker Modes — Some options reduce external audio output when enabled.
  • Recheck Audio Format After Updates — Firmware updates can flip audio format back to Atmos or auto modes.

Streaming apps can trip HDCP or audio format mismatches, so you might see video while the audio path stays muted.

When only streaming apps fail, HDCP is usually involved. Some extractors don’t play nicely with protected streams. If local files and games work but Netflix or similar apps mute, test with a different HDMI cable, then try a different extractor model that lists HDCP support for your video resolution.

  1. Test With A Non-Streaming Source — Use a game console menu sound or a YouTube clip to confirm the optical path works.
  2. Lower Video Output Temporarily — Set the source to 1080p to see if the extractor behaves better.
  3. Disable HDR For A Quick Check — Some budget extractors struggle with HDR handshakes.

Common Problems And Fixes

If your setup is silent or flaky, these checks solve most issues without buying new gear.

No Sound At All

  1. Confirm Extractor Power — Underpowered units can pass video while the audio section never starts.
  2. Reseat The Toslink Cable — Optical plugs can sit slightly loose and still look connected.
  3. Switch To PCM Mode — PCM is the fastest way to confirm the optical output is alive.
  4. Try Another HDMI Port On The TV — Some ports run special modes that cause odd HDMI behavior.
  5. Restart In A Clean Order — Power off all devices, then power on TV, extractor, receiver, then the source.

Sound Works But Only Stereo

  1. Enable Bitstream On The Source — Set the console or streamer to Dolby Digital or DTS output.
  2. Confirm Receiver Decoding — The receiver display should show Dolby Digital or DTS during playback.
  3. Turn Off Stereo-Only Extractor Modes — Some units have a 2.0 switch that forces stereo.
  4. Check Each App’s Audio Track — Some titles default to stereo tracks even when 5.1 is available.

Audio Drops Out, Pops, Or Clicks

  1. Swap The HDMI Cable — HDMI handshakes that wobble can mute audio for a second.
  2. Disable HDMI-CEC Temporarily — CEC can change inputs or power states that reset the extractor.
  3. Lock Video Output Mode — Auto frame-rate switching can trigger renegotiation and a short mute.
  4. Shorten Or Reroute The Optical Cable — Tight bends can cause intermittent light loss.

Voices Don’t Match Mouths

  1. Turn Off Extra Sound Modes — Virtual surround or dialogue enhancers can add delay.
  2. Adjust Receiver Lip Sync — Add delay in small steps until speech lines up.
  3. Try TV Passthrough Settings — Passthrough can reduce delay on some sets.

Quick Buying Checklist Before You Order

If you don’t want to read spec sheets, use this checklist and you’ll still buy the right box.

  • Write Down Your Video Target — 1080p, 4K60, 4K120, HDR, or VRR.
  • Write Down Your Audio Target — Stereo PCM, Dolby Digital 5.1, or DTS 5.1.
  • Confirm Port Roles — Source HDMI out, display HDMI in, receiver optical in.
  • Pick Standard Or ARC Extractor — Standard for a source, ARC model for TV return audio.
  • Plan Stable Power — Wall USB power beats a sleeping TV USB port.

Once the hardware matches the job, setup is usually quick. When it still refuses to behave, the fix is nearly always an audio format switch to PCM or Dolby Digital, not a new cable run across the room.

Sources used for factual constraints and standards:
https://www.hdmi.org/spec2sub/enhancedaudioreturnchannel
https://www.startech.com/en-eu/faq/uncompressed-digital-spdif-surround-sound-limitati